
Well who would have thought Cheddar Cheese
could be made and sold in France! This versatile, tangy and so
English cheese is furthermore made by an Australian lady who has
been resident in France for seventeen years. The Cheese is
also "bio" - biological production - and the Fromagerie is described as
fromagerie artisanale cerfifié AB.
Erica Hicks took the courageous decision to
embark on the cheese making business two years ago and admits that if
she had known in advance of the complications involved, she would never
have had the courage to embark on the project. However Erica
enjoys her cheeses and the wines that accompany them and thought that
this would be a business that would tie in with her family commitments
as she has two children.
Firstly, she had to obtain a Cheese
maker's qualification which meant studying in Rennes at Agricultural
College for some time. Once officially recognised as an Artisan Fromagère, which was the qualification necessary to gain her licence to
manufacture the cheese, she had to go about constructing the dairy
itself and purchasing equipment. This involved laying out money and
hoping that the cheese production would be given the official go ahead.
The actual building was constructed by
a builder with Erica's help with the foundations. She undertook
the mammoth task of the
tiling herself and courageously worked on the cheese store which is
underground below the dairy and dug out of rock which is necessary as this
cheese has to be stored at ground temperature. 
Erica went into her cheese production
in a thorough way and visited England to study the Cheddar Cheese making
process and she follows the traditional method of making the cheese exactly.
The next stage in getting the
enterprise underway in France involved officialdom Every
aspect of the operation was scrutinised - not just from a Health and
Safety and Hygiene aspect but also from the quality side and whether the cheese could be considered cheese!
Even the labels were inspected to see if they complied with the law.

Food production is so strictly
regulated in France that even the Fraud Squad were involved
to make sure that standards were met. It was to Erica's great
relief that Chapelle Cheddar passed the tests.
The cheese production is a skilled an
exacting process. The organic milk which Erica buys from farms
where she has herself inspected the cattle, is cooked
and the curds and whey are transferred from the vat to the cheddaring
table -pictured left. The curds are cut, turned and piled at
regular intervals. Thus pressed, they go from a scrambled egg
consistency to cooked chicken breast. The pressed curd is then
milled by hand through a peg mill.
After salting, the Cheddar
chips are punched into 8 kg. moulds and left to press for three days.
The bandaged and labelled cheese is then stored in the underground
cheese store.
Apart from Cheddar, Erica also supplies
smoked cheese and Tomme which is a French hard cheese. Surprisingly the customers for the
Cheddar are mostly French people. Erica puts this down to their
being familiar with unpasturised cheese with a rind.
Erica has made great efforts to present
her business professionally and from her market stall to the
presentation and packaging of the cheese all is professional and eye
catching.
Well, what did Erica do prior to going
into child and cheese production? On arriving in France, she went
to a supermarket which was then the French branch of the Pound Shop, so
well known in Jersey, and asked for a tin of baked beans.
Observing the confusion that the assistants were experiencing, she asked
them if they wanted a hand. Eleven years later she was still there
in a management position which involved travelling between the three
stores - which if I remember correctly - were called something like Dix
Francs?
Erica markets
the cheese directly and also has a stand at the Saturday morning market
in Dinard and the Thursday morning market in Dinan. She also distributes
through organic supermarkets and farm shops and the Fromargerie is open
on Wednesday evening between 17h and 19h. La Chapelle is situated
not far from the town of Evran which is south of Dinan. Dinan is 15
minutes away as is the ancient town of Combourg. Saint Malo and Dinard
are 30 minutes away to the north and Rennes is 30 minutes away in
another direction.
Chapelle Cheddar
La Chapelle
Trevinal
35190
Treverien
Tel 02 99 45 62 11
DIRECTION MAP
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